4WD TO 2WD OUTPUT SHAFT CONVERSION
1. Unscrew shifter ring from base of shifter, remove shifter
2. Remove small locating pin on side of cover top where shifter ring screws on. Carefull not to knock pin down inside trans case.
3. Remove 6 bolts from cover and remove it. May need to twist cover toward side of tranny that kicks out (where reverse fork rides).
4. Here is a pic of where everything goes and where the synchronizer assemblies should go to get neutral on all gears.
5. Remove 4 bolts holding bearing retainer on
6. Remove snap ring and washer from output shaft. (pic shown has 2WD shaft already installed). Ensure you have a "retaining ring" set of pliers (got mine from sears for 18$) as normal snap ring pliers do not work well for these snap rings.
Also remove same type snap ring that holds input shaft bearing to mainshaft.
7. Input and output bearings need to be removed. You can not get a normal puller on them, but using a soft blow hammer, you can tap somewhat aggressively on the output shaft. This will force the entire mainshaft and gears forward. As the entire assembly loosens, you can slide it back and output bearing will slide back. Be carefull that input shaft does not slide off mainshaft, as there are 22 needle bearings inside that will fall down in case.
8. Once you have ouput bearing back far enough, you can use a puller to remove. I had to grind off 4WD output shaft to be able to fit puller.
9. Slide main cluster back as far as you can and push input shaft forward. Tilt input shaft upward and remove 22 needles. Put input bearing back in main case and again, use soft blow hammer to push input shaft rearward. Use puller if needed to get input bearing off input shaft. Ensure you do not lose thrust washer in front on mainshaft.
10. 2WD input shaft has a threaded portion on the end of shaft. This threaded portion is not needed and can interfere with installing the trans to TC adapter. I ground the entire threaded section off. Be careful not to grind on output splines.
11. Ensure ouput shaft fits into spud shaft. Mine fit almost entirely into spud shaft.
12. Tilt main cluster upwards and remove from the case. Lay main cluster next to 2WD shaft and ensure they looks close to same (except for ouput splines, obviously).
13. Remove snap ring (retaining ring) from front of mainshaft, holding 3rd/4th gear synchronizer assembly on mainshaft.
14. Slide off 3rd/4th gear synchronizer assembly. Try to keep this synchronizer and 3rd gear assembly as one unit.
15. If they come apart, you have to remember that the blocking ring (actually the brass synchronizer ring) needs to mate up with the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer via 3 flat slippers (or synchro "dogs").
16. If you really Effed up, and outer synchronizer ring comes off, 3 slipper pads and possibly one of the internal light snap rings that puts pressure on slipper pads may come off. Getting this back together is not easy, but not impossible. Put light snap ring back inside inner part of synchronizer and put shaft on end. Using all 3 of your hands, hold all the slipper pads into the inner synchronizer ring and slide outer ring over. May need to depress slipper pads slightly to get outer ring to slide over inner ring. Use your other 3 hands to accomplish this J )
17. Remove snap ring holding 1rst/2nd gear synchronizer assembly on mainshaft.
18. Remove 1rst/2nd gear synchronizer assembly. Be careful not to remove outer ring from synchronizer assembly, as 3 small balls and springs will fly out all over the place. Remove intermediate snap ring that holds 2nd gear on mainshaft.
19. Remove final snap ring that holds opposite side of 2nd gear. Make sure you keep track of where these 3 snap rings go, they are not all the same thickness.
20. Once again, check that mainshafts are indentical (obviously much easier to do now). .
21. Install 2nd gear and 1rst/2nd gear synchronizer in reverse order installing 3 snap rings. Holding mainshaft on end to install the snap rings was easier for me.
22. Make sure 1rst/2nd gear synchronizer assembly is installed this end in.
23. If everything is installed correctly, 1rst/2nd gear stabilizer should be sitting in this spot (3rd snap ring shown).
24. Install 3rd/4th gear synchronizer and snap ring. If everything goes back correctly, synchronizer assembly should end up in this spot.
24. If you have not already, remove input shaft (through inside of of case), coat fairly heavily inside with some sticky grease and install input shaft needles.
25. Re-install input shaft, and then main cluster assembly (dont forget thrust washer on front of main cluster). Install oil slinger on input shaft, noting outer edge is forward, away from 3rd gear. Install input shaft bearing. I used a 2",.125 wall piece of DOM tubing and lightly tapped bearing into place. While doing this, you need to ensure mainshaft and input shaft do not separate, as needle bearings and/or thrust washer will fall into bottom of case. (installing output bearing shown here).
26. Install bearing retainer with 4 bolts. I reused gasket, with a bit of RTV.
27. Install output bearing. Again ensure input bearing stays firm against main cluster. Even if they come apart slightly from pounding in output bearing, there should not be enough space for needle bearings to fall out at this point. Install output shaft washer and snap ring.
28. Check on more time to see that everything looks like this.
29. Clean cover and top of case. Apply RTV and install cover assembly with 6 bolts. Again, cover may need to slide to reverse fork side to fit in.
30. Paint tranny all pretty so it looks good for install.
31. With nothing mounted to back of tranny, the output bearing can move slightly back. Does not seem to hurt anything, but it didn't feel right when trying to test the gears. I installed shifter when I was finished and when trying to go into first gear, it seemed like it wanted to push all the guts out the back on the trans. I installed this bracket and one bolt to hold output bearing in place for trans testing and install. I plan on installing TC adapter with the TC, not on the back of trans.